How to Safely Perm Bleached Hair

Combining bleach with a perm is a delicate chemical balancing act. Both processes are intense and can significantly affect your hair’s health. Bleaching removes your natural color, leaving strands porous and fragile, while perming breaks and reforms protein bonds to create a new texture.

However, this doesn’t mean you have to sacrifice your dream of having both light hair and lovely curls. With careful preparation, the correct products, and a precise technique, you can safely and successfully perm your bleached hair.

This guide on how to safely perm bleached hair will provide all the necessary information, from pre-treatment to aftercare, to keep your hair healthy and beautiful.

What Will You Need?

Gathering all your supplies before you begin is essential for a smooth and successful at-home perm on bleached hair. Here’s a checklist of everything you’ll need:

• Acid or Thio-Free Perm Kit: This is non-negotiable. Traditional alkaline perms are too harsh for bleached hair. You must find a kit formulated for color-treated, damaged, or porous hair.
• Protein Filler or Bond-Building Treatment: This product helps even out the hair’s porosity, ensuring the perm solution works evenly and strengthening the hair to prevent breakage.
• Clarifying Shampoo: To remove product buildup and oils, creating a clean base for the perm solution to adhere to.
• Deep Conditioner or Hair Mask: A rich, moisturizing treatment is crucial for restoring hydration after the chemical process.
• Perm Rods: The size you choose determines your curl pattern. Larger rods create loose waves, while smaller rods result in tighter curls.
• Cotton Coils or Barrier Cream: Use petroleum jelly or a similar cream around your hairline to protect your skin from chemicals.
• Plastic Cap: To cover your hair while the waving lotion processes.
• Applicator Bottle: For precise application of the perm and neutralizer solutions.
• Several Old Towels: To protect your clothing, skin, and work surfaces.
• Gloves: To protect your hands from the chemical solutions.
• Wide-Tooth Comb: For gently detangling your hair before you start.
• Timer: To accurately track processing times.

10 Easy Steps on How to Safely Perm Bleached Hair

Patience and attention to detail are paramount when perming bleached hair. Following these steps carefully will help you achieve your desired curls while minimizing the risk of damage.

Step 1: Assess Your Hair’s Condition

Before you begin, you must honestly evaluate your hair’s health. Bleached hair is already compromised. Gently take a small strand of hair and feel its texture. If it feels mushy when wet, stretches excessively like a rubber band, or snaps with little effort, your hair is too damaged to perm. Proceeding will only cause more breakage, potentially resulting in a “chemical haircut.” If your hair shows these signs of extreme damage, focus on deep conditioning and protein treatments for several weeks to improve its integrity before reconsidering a perm.

Step 2: Perform a Strand Test

This is the most critical step and should never be skipped. A strand test reveals how your hair will react to the perm and helps you determine the exact processing time. Prepare a small amount of the perm solution. Select a small, hidden section of hair, apply a protein filler, and wrap it around a perm rod. Apply the waving lotion and start a timer. Check the strand every couple of minutes by gently unwinding the curl to look for an “S” shape. Bleached hair processes much faster than untreated hair, so your time will likely be shorter than the maximum listed on the box. Once you have a clear “S” pattern, note the time, rinse, neutralize, and let the strand dry. This test tells you if your hair can handle the process and your precise timing.

Step 3: Prepare Your Hair

Your hair must be completely clean. Wash it with a clarifying shampoo to remove any residue that could interfere with the perm solution. Be gentle on your scalp to avoid irritation. Do not use conditioner. After washing, gently detangle your hair with a wide-tooth comb and pat it with a towel until it is damp. Avoid rubbing your hair vigorously, as this can damage the fragile cuticles of your bleached strands.

Step 4: Apply a Porosity Equalizer or Protein Filler

Bleached hair has uneven porosity, meaning some parts absorb chemicals faster than others. A protein filler or porosity equalizer addresses this by filling in the gaps along the hair shaft, creating a uniform surface. This ensures an even curl pattern and prevents over-processing in more damaged areas, like the ends. Spray the product throughout your damp hair, comb it through, and do not rinse it out.

Step 5: Section and Wrap Your Hair

This part of the process requires patience. Apply a barrier cream like petroleum jelly around your hairline and on your ears. Section your hair into four quadrants. Working with small subsections no wider than your perm rods, place an end paper on the tips to prevent crimps. Roll the hair smoothly onto the rod from tip to root with firm, even tension. The tension should be secure but not so tight that it pulls on your scalp, which can cause breakage. Secure each rod and continue until all your hair is wrapped.

Step 6: Apply the Waving Lotion

It’s time for the chemical application. Put on your gloves and place cotton coils along your hairline to catch drips. Using the applicator bottle, carefully saturate each wrapped rod with the waving lotion. Go over each rod two or three times to ensure complete coverage, as missed spots will not curl. Start at the nape of the neck and work your way up. Once every rod is saturated, cover your head with a plastic cap to trap heat and aid processing.

Step 7: Process and Check for Curl Development

Set your timer for the exact duration determined by your strand test. Since bleached hair is porous, check on it early. To check for doneness, carefully unwind one rod about one and a half turns and look for a clear “S” wave. If the wave is weak, re-wrap the hair and process for another minute or two before checking a different rod. Once you see a springy “S” shape, your hair is ready for rinsing. Do not exceed the time from your strand test.

Step 8: Rinse Thoroughly

This step stops the chemical reaction. With the rods still in your hair, rinse with warm water for at least five full minutes—longer for thick hair. It is vital to remove every trace of the waving lotion to prevent damage and ensure the neutralizer works correctly. Make sure water flows through every rod. Afterward, gently blot each rod with a towel to remove excess water.

Step 9: Apply the Neutralizer

The neutralizer rebuilds the hair’s bonds into their new curled shape. Keep the rods in and apply about two-thirds of the neutralizing solution to each rod, ensuring complete saturation. Let it process for the time specified in the kit, usually around 10 minutes. Afterward, carefully remove the rods. Apply the remaining one-third of the neutralizer to the ends of your hair and gently work it through for another minute to ensure the ends are fully locked into their curl.

Step 10: Final Rinse and Conditioning

Rinse your hair for another three to five minutes with lukewarm water to remove all chemicals. Your hair may feel stiff. Apply a generous amount of a deep conditioner or hair mask. Let it sit for at least five minutes, then gently detangle with your fingers or a very wide-tooth comb. Rinse with cool water to seal the hair cuticle. Let your hair air-dry to see the final, beautiful result.

5 Things You Should Avoid

1. Skipping the Strand Test: This is the riskiest mistake. Guessing your processing time on bleached hair can lead to melted or broken strands.
2. Using an Alkaline Perm: These traditional perms are too harsh. Always select an acid or thio-free perm formulated for damaged or color-treated hair.
3. Washing Your Hair Too Soon: Wait 48 to 72 hours before your first shampoo. This allows the new chemical bonds in your hair to fully harden, ensuring your curls last.
4. Applying Too Much Tension: Wrapping hair too tightly on the rods can cause breakage at the root and scalp irritation. Keep tension firm but gentle.
5. Over-Processing: Bleached hair processes very quickly. Adhering to the time from your strand test is crucial. Even a few extra minutes can cause irreversible damage.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I Perm My Hair Immediately After Bleaching It?

No, you should wait at least two to four weeks between bleaching and perming. This gives your hair essential time to recover its strength. During this waiting period, focus on using deep conditioning treatments to prepare your hair for the next process.

What Should I Do if My Hair Feels Gummy or Breaks During the Process?

If you notice this, it is a sign of severe over-processing, and you must stop immediately. Rinse all chemicals from your hair for 10-15 minutes with lukewarm water and apply a bond-building treatment or protein mask to prevent further damage.

How Do I Care for My Permed and Bleached Hair?

Gentle care is essential for your fragile hair. Use sulfate-free shampoos and conditioners for damaged, color-treated hair. Avoid heat styling whenever possible and incorporate regular deep conditioners and leave-in treatments to maintain moisture and curl elasticity.

Conclusion

How to safely perm bleached hair is an advanced chemical service that requires the utmost care and precision.

While the dream of having both light color and bouncy curls is appealing, protecting the health of your hair must be the top priority. By carefully assessing your hair’s condition, conducting a strand test, and following each step meticulously, you can achieve stunning results without compromising your hair’s integrity.

Remember to use gentle formulas, protective treatments, and diligent aftercare to enjoy your vibrant color and beautiful new texture for months to come.